Finding the South in Brooklyn

This is a tale of a girl who had her first taste of the South, in Brooklyn. Those of you from the South, please refrain from passing judgment until after reading this post, and hopefully trying the place I am about to revere. That being said, let the story begin...

There is a place in Fort Greene that my friends and I had been wanting to try for a while, called The Smoke Joint. We passed by it once on a leisurely walk through the neighborhood, and I remember stepping inside and having the aroma of barbecue sauce wash over me instantly. Barely glancing at the menu, we knew this was a place we needed to dedicate a night to eating at. Always waiting for the right time, we let months go by before actually going there.

Finally, on a Saturday night with no plans and empty stomachs, we found ourselves craving stick-to-your-bones comfort food. We braved the lingering cold of March and walked over to Fort Greene. As we passed cute restaurants and wine bars, our motivation swayed slightly, but we persevered after remembering what awaited us.

And for the second time, the door swung open and I felt intoxicated as I inhaled the sweet and smoky scent of barbecue. Everything about The Smoke Joint excites the senses. The smells, obviously, but also the sight of steaming entrees and side dishes being carried from the counter, located right next to the front door, over to the tables.

Needless to say, we were overwhelmed. As soon as the server came over, instead of picking and choosing, we went the route of more is more. Was it enough that we ordered cornbread? No, we also needed corn on the cob, which was slathered with a chipotle mayo and sprinkled with scallions and paprika. And of course we needed collard greens. And french fries, tossed liberally in old bay spice. And macaroni and cheese that was bubbling on top and had a thick custard texture beneath. And our entrees came with coleslaw and pickles.

And then there were the entrees themselves. Oh, for the love of meat. As a girl who's only past encounters with brisket have been on Rosh Hashanah and Passover, I wasn't sure what to expect. What I got was a generous stack of moist and tender meat, begging to be doused in the hot sauces provided on the table for such an occasion. The commingling flavors of the smoky brisket, hot sauce, and crunchy coleslaw were deeply satisfying, with the tangy pickles completing the love affair. Even though I love my mother's Jewish brisket, while writing this post in bed, I could definitely eat some Smoke Joint brisket this very minute.

One of my friends ordered the hot links, which also did not disappoint, with a satisfyingly crackly exterior and an incredibly flavorful inside.

All around us, people were joyfully tucking in to their meats of choice and plentiful sides. There was a general feeling of camaraderie, because I think all of the diners felt apart of something special. We had stepped outside of Brooklyn temporarily, and had entered the bright South, its culture imbued with culinary traditions. Well, it was either that or the wide selection of bourbon that inspired the festive atmosphere.

There's really nothing else to say about the meal, except that afterward, my friends and I literally sat at the table for a good twenty minutes before able to move. And even then, we were only capable of moving to the bar across the street before needing to sit down again and rest. This is not a meal to be underestimated. When you go to the Smoke Joint, it's go hard or go home. In another month or so, when I'm finally hungry again, I can't wait to go back for my second dose of the South.

Donut Lovers Anonymous

My name is Julie, and I love donuts.

I have tried to stifle this affinity in the past, thinking donuts are an unsophisticated and particularly glutinous dessert. How could I rationalize choosing a half-stale Dunkin Donut over a cute cupcake, served up at some hip cafe??

But now, I have discovered Dough, a place that gives donuts their due, thus allowing me to make my love for donuts known. And lucky (or dangerous) for me, Dough happens to be two blocks away from where I live.

I first read about Dough in the New York Times, which highlighted its nutella cream-filled donuts, among its other kinds. Honestly, I became dazed and confused once I read the words "nutella" and "donut" in the same sentence, so the rest of the article was a blur. And later that morning, after two of my housemates had e-mailed me said article, I knew a trip was imminent.

So on a balmy day in late February, I walked excitedly with some housemates over to Dough. I just have to say, it really exceeded my expectations.

First of all, I smelled the delicious scent of sugar and fried dough from a block away. The smell wafted over to me and seemed to carry me through the front door straight to the quaint counter, where fresh batches of donuts were being carried out. I had gone to Dough with the clear intention of getting the nutella cream-filled donut, but as soon as I saw the other selections, I pretty much digressed to my eight-year-old self. I just stood there, staring at the donuts with my mouth open and my eyes glazed over.While my friends quickly made their selections, I still couldn't bring myself to choose just one. Should I get a nutella or chai-cream filled donut, or a classic glazed or cinnamon sugar? Or I could be super daring and get the hibiscus flower one! I was literally a kid in a candy store.

So obviously, I tasted all of my friends' donuts to help me decide. The glazed chocolate topped with chocolate nibs was extraordinary, while the chocolate with earl grey, although a really good donut, didn't quite deliver that punch of bergamot flavor I was hoping for. The cafe au lait was delectable, even though I don't even like coffee! This didn't actually make my selection process any easier.

Finally, after much deliberation, I chose the dulce de leche with slivered almonds on top. I'm embarassed to say that a contributing factor to me not going with the nutella-cream was that the cream filled donuts were smaller in diameter than the regular donuts. Not my finest foodie moment. But no matter, the donut was DELICIOUS. The dough itself was soft and yeasty and melted in my mouth. The dulce de leche glaze was creamy and added that level of sinful caramel flavor, while the slivered almonds lent texture and a nutty after-taste. So. Good.

 

Conclusion: Dough will definitely be seeing more of me in the future. For one thing, I still need to taste the nutella cream donut (and every other kind available). If you ever find yourself in the area of Clinton Hill/Bed-Stuy, I highly recommend you swing by and pick up some donuts, either for yourself or as a gift to someone else. Once you try these, you too can become a donut lover. 

Happy Mornings

Anyone who has ever lived with me can attest to the fact that I am not a morning person (consider this my public apology to all who have had to suffer through my obnoxious alarm clocks). And this whole job thing, where I have to repeatedly wake up at what I consider an ungodly hour, is not helping. Throw in some dirty slush and chilling winds, and I cannot think of a single reason for why I should leave my warm bed.

Except one: Choice Market.

My housemate Lizzie introduced me to Choice Market. At first I was sure she was exaggerating, as I heard her sing its praises of scrumptious breakfast items and reasonable prices. But now I know differently, and believe me, there is no going back. Choice Market is a cozy and casual cafe five minutes from my house. It's the perfect way to introduce a visitor to my neighborhood, which I have now done four or five times over. It has never failed to impress whomever accompanies me, through its extraordinarily well-executed foods. Although I've now been there quite a lot, I continue to get giddier each time I go, knowing what deliciousness inevitably waits for me.

The experience at Choice Market is at once energizing and relaxing, and the set up of the cafe, genius. Walking in to the small establishment, you will always encounter a line of Pratt students, young families, and various other neighborhood residents waiting patiently to place their orders. Immediately to the left of the door is the pastry case (pictured above), where you are greeted by flaky croissants, puffy brioche rolls and gorgeous scones and muffins. To the right is a fairly large wooden table which seats about ten. If you are planning on eating there, you're first priority should be to stake a claim at the table, or shamelessly stalk those who look like they're almost done.

Once you get on line, you will find yourself drooling over their prepared foods, showcased right in front of the kitchen, from which good smells are forever emanating. Their prepared foods, like macaroni and cheese casserole, hanger steak with Chimichurri glaze, and sauteed Brussels sprouts with garlic and olive oil, always mesmorize me....until I remember it's time to focus on breakfast.

When I went to Choice with my mom (two mornings in a row, I might add), I like to think we discovered the perfect combination of dishes to share. The first was an omelet platter: an omelet with eggs so perfectly cooked and delicate tasting that I wouldn't be surprised if the eggs were laid hours before. The omelet is stuffed with creamy goat cheese, sauteed wild mushrooms that add that perfect savory note, and buttery sauteed spinach. That combination, making me weak in the knees as I write this, can melt a person from the inside out. Their omelets are served with roasted potatoes seasoned with smoked paprika, and a small pile of butter lettuce, drizzled with a flavorful mustard vinaigrette. This is all accompanied by two pieces of grilled toast (their own homemade bread, of course), which is crunchy yet dense and chewy. It's all incredibly simple, but done so perfectly that you'd think you had never tasted an omelet before.

So on to the second dish that rounded out the perfect breakfast of all time....blueberry pancakes. Again, not your ordinary pancakes. Choice Market blueberry pancakes are fluffy and moist, with the slightest bit of crispness on the outside. Studded with sweet blueberries, these pancakes are sprinkled generously with sliced bananas and walnuts, with a side of real maple syrup. I really appreciate that nothing is too sweet, and no flavor overpowering. All components work together in harmony to create a symphony of balanced flavors. The blueberries lend a slight tartness, while the bananas are creamy and the walnuts crunchy and a bit earthy. The pancakes are executed so well, and with quality ingredients, that you are elevated to a new level of serenity when taking a full bit of pancake, banana and walnut, all lightly coated with the subtly sweet syrup.

Okay, I've rambled on for way too long about omelets and pancakes, and I didn't even get to the orange chocolate scone my mom had, or the cranberry almond muffin I had (both delicious, by the way). So basically the take home message is this: go to Choice Market! Believe me when I say you'll be glad you got out of bed to brave the cold.

Go West and Go Home

I grew up in Columbia, MD, a thriving, family-oriented suburbia. For me, one of it's downfalls is its overabundance of chain restaurants, which irked me more and more as my passion for food grew. I felt deprived of advancing my culinary horizons within my home town, and was a bit embarrassed with the lack of neighborhood eats I could take visiting friends to. Of course Columbia does have a handful of quality restaurants, but it always made me sad that on the whole, independent places often could not compete with chains.

Luckily for me, Columbia is situated right in-between two major cities: Washington, D.C. and Baltimore. Going to college in D.C. awarded me the opportunity to explore Ethiopian, Middle Eastern, and many other different cuisines that are not easily accessible in Columbia. My restaurant experiences in Baltimore were always more limited however, in part because my time spent there growing up was mostly to visit my grandma, when we would usually go to a Chinese restaurant in her neighborhood (although Mr. Chan's is really tasty, I must say!).

I therefore consider myself even luckier to have discovered Golden West Cafe, located in the adorable Hamden neighborhood in Baltimore. Hamden is filled with vintage shops, boutiques, and an overwhelming choice of restaurants and cafes, all packed within a few blocks.

However I have trained myself to turn a blind eye to all other food options, and make a B line to the Golden West Cafe. Golden West offers a fun atmosphere filled with antique and whimsical Western paraphernalia (obviously not complete without a moose head). The menus are made of, and the bathrooms covered with, vintage record covers. The menu itself is composed of what they call "New Mexican," which translates to unique spins on Tex-Mex inspired plates, with plenty of vegetarian and even vegan options.

As per tradition, every visit to Golden West for me begins with their delicious sweet potato fries, dressed with rosemary salt (you can also get the sweet version with cinnamon sugar). These vibrant orange fries are always made to order (aka, you must practice patience when they arrive, in order not to burn your tongue), and are supremely delicious. Their crispy and savory exterior gives way to a fluffy and subtly sweet interior. They are delectable eaten alone or with ketchup, but I'm a fan of dips, so I like ordering their homemade lemon tahini dressing on the side for such purposes. The result? Heaven! The dressing is thick and bursting with bright citrusy notes and nutty flavors, complimenting the fries' contrasting texture and taste.

For my main course, I decided to go with one of their house specialties, Sopaipillas Enchiladas. Imagine hot and crispy sopaipillas (fried tortilla dough) amidst a mountain of beans, grilled chicken breast, jack cheese, and house-made chile sauce. Throw in guacamole, sour cream, salsa fresca, and an egg sunny side up, and you've got the Sopaipillas Enchiladas, a plate fit for man vs. food.

That's one thing I like about Golden West. The dishes and restaurant as a whole exudes an air of over-excitement. The chef, instead of picking and choosing what to put in the restaurant's dishes, simply decides to throw everything in, and because it's all delicious and well-crafted, the components work together to create a party in your mouth. Everything about this dish made me feel the passion behind its concoction, from the moist chicken and flavorful beans, to the spicy chile sauce, to the perfectly cooked egg, who's runny yolk coated the crispy sopaipillas and everything else in its path with a silky smooth blanket.

I also want to mention the dish that my mom (who served as my eating partner in crime for the evening) ordered, which, although part of the non-Mexican side of the menu, was just as inspiring. Their polenta in minestrone, which was a dinner special the night we went, was crafted using locally secured produce, resulting in an extremely flavorful and hearty stew that covered large triangles of lightly browned polenta, with freshly grated Parmesan sprinkled on top. Again, textures and flavors melded together seamlessly, as biting into the crispy outside of the polenta gave way to its creamy center, an experience heightened by the richly developed flavors of the minestrone, all finished with a slightly pungent aftertaste of the parmesan.

Needless to say, my mom and I were both more than content after our respective meals. Although I'm thrilled to be back in New York, exploring its endless food traditions and innovations, it's always nice to come back to a place unique to where I'm from. For me, the Golden West Cafe provides a guaranteed great meal, always with a friend or family member happy to share the experience with me.

Eyfo HaSush?!

Where is the sushi, that is the question. Well I found it. I know, I know, I'm in New York City, where a new hip Sushi place is opening once every seven minutes.

BUT...not every one of these hip sushi places is reasonably priced, while still able to offer good quality fish, and pieces of sushi that aren't 90% rice. To find a place like that is, I think, a feat.

Before i continue, I do want to explain the title of this post. "Eyfo HaSush" nostalgically refers to my time spent abroad in Tel Aviv, Israel, where I'm pretty sure Sushi places exist even more so than in New York. So there I was in the Middle East, surrounded by plenty of places offering delicious falafal, kebabs and salads (of which I did have plenty, believe me). Yet I found myself gravitating towards the sushi restaurants on a Saturday night, since the abundance of fresh seafood available to Israel lessened the prices somewhat, making sushi an affordable (and delicious) option to my friends and me. It therefore became a running joke to ask, when seeking out a restaurant, "Eyfo HaSush???," literally translating to "where is the sush??"

Thus it was entirely appropriate that my friend Meesh, who I traveled abroad with, introduced me to this Sushi place in the East Village, called JeBon. I was expecting either really good sushi with the high prices that usually accompany it, or subpar pieces of fish at reasonable prices. I was pleasantly surprised when I was presented with beautiful pieces of carefully crafted sushi. And not only were the prices budget friendly, but the atmosphere was an interesting combination of playful and toned down.

I apologize for the poor photo quality, because it makes it hard to see the vibrant colors of these uramaki rolls (aka inside out rolls). The forefront one is a spicy tuna roll, and the one in back is shrimp tempura. The pieces were large, with the fish occupying most of the roll. The tuna was very smooth, with no fishy taste, and the spicy mayonnaise sauce atop it, while not overpowering, was flavorful and satisfying. In the tuna tempora roll, I was delighted to see how generous the shrimp portion was in each piece. The shrimp was crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside, indicating that the tempora had been fried moments before being prepared and delivered to me. The tempura roll also had avocado in it, which was great to have that cool, creamy texture juxtapose the warm crunch of the shrimp.

The atmosphere definitely added to pleasant dining experience. The low lighting was nice, although I should mention that the second time I went here, that wall of lights was red, and I do not recommend sitting at a table right next to blaring red beams. The music in the background, which was turned to an appropriately high, yet not deafening volume, was made up mostly of songs that one would usually hear at a club, making it a good venue on a Friday or Saturday night before continuing on to a bar or club.

I'm really happy that I've found a sushi place where I can enjoy my food and friends' company, while not having to worry about spending a fortune. That means that I can be responsible, and spend that money elsewhere, like for laundry...yeah right.

Cookie Heaven

So, I've never had much of a sweet tooth. I mean, I love cookies and desserts as much as the next person, but I don't get cravings for things of that nature as much as I get cravings for chicken marsala.

But this bakery...ohh this bakery. The Levain Bakery basically changed the way I think about cookies. I scoff when I see little puny cookies sold in other bakeries and on the shelves of the supermarkets. I mean, I still eat them, because hello, they're cookies, but I scoff while I eat them. As anyone can clearly tell, the size of the cookies alone is impressive (my mom first thought she was looking at muffins when I showed her this picture).

I think it's fitting that this be my first post of a place actually in NYC. It's a place that you would pass right by if you didn't know it was there, since you have to go down half a flight of stairs to access the entrance. It's a tiny place, and it doesn't claim to be anything other than a haven for cookie lovers. But these small, unassuming places that deliver the goods are exactly the kinds of places I want to frequent....the hidden gems of the city (not that this gem is so secret. Their website has a video of when they were featured on Oprah. But really, any publicity the Levain Bakery receives is completely justified).

I hope the picture above depicts the magnificent size and texture of this dark chocolate peanut butter chip cookie, so large that even splitting it with someone means eating the equivalent of two average size cookies. The peanut butter chips were gooey and punctuated every bite, and the inside was incredibly moist and rich. Conclusion: I would choose this cookie over chicken marsala, and for me that is really saying a lot.

Thanks for reading!
Julie

Respect for the Hudson Valley

Every summer, my family and I go up to Dutchess county for a few weeks. For me, it is pure bliss. Besides the obvious appeal of escaping the everyday stresses for relaxation and late-night scrabble games, the Hudson Valley offers a smorgasbord of restaurants with unique concepts and genuine chefs.

Take Gigi's Trattoria in Rhinebeck. The restaurant exemplifies the philosophy of using local ingredients. The owner Laura Pensiero's menu changes seasonally, and whenever produce from local farms is used in dishes (which is quite often), she notes in the menu what farms the food comes from. She then takes these fresh ingredients and turns them into Mediterranean inspired meals. Seriously, the food is amazing.

This past summer, I got the Bianca "Skizza," an incredibly thin crust pizza that is really all about the toppings: fig jam, chevre goat cheese, mozzarella, thin pear slices, topped with arugula and a drizzle of truffle oil. I was a little skeptical but intrigued, and the taste pairings of the sweet fruit, creamy and tangy cheese, and crunchy arugula with the pungent hint of the truffle oil proved sensational.

Oh, and Gigi's also catered Chelsea Clinton's wedding. The Clintons have very good taste!

Another restaurant that I can't wait to go back to is Poppy's Burgers, in Beacon. A tiny place, it literally only serves burgers and fries, and with good reason. It is honestly the best burger I have ever had. They are juicy, moist (but not greasy), perfectly cooked to medium, and have an amazing flavor that I'm sure originates with their grass-fed, organic beef from Kiernan Farms in Gardiner, NY. Also, the cheese on my burger was so oozey and tangy and delicious, I was convinced it was some locally engineered cheese i had never tasted before...I asked, and was shocked to discover it was cheddar! All I know is that I've never gotten that result from melting Sargento cheddar. And next time I go, I'm definitely opting for the fried egg, one of their topping choices.

A restaurant that I can't go without mentioning is Twisted Soul in Poughkeepsie, near Vassar College. Owned and run by a Culinary Institute of America grad, the restaurant's concept fuses ethnic foods together to make delicious combinations, like savory goat cheese and corn empanadas, and surprisingly airy chickpea fries (pictured below). The joint is small and intimate, and it is obvious that each dish is made to order by the few chefs that are taking orders at the register, preparing the food, and serving. You're crazy if you don't get three or four to share (for two people), in order to sample the eclectic collection of recipes. The fries were definitely my favorite: crispy and light, and incredibly flavorful, since chickpeas have such an earthy substantial flavor that puts plain old potatoes to shame.

Ok almost done with this never-ending post, I promise! But one of the true highlights of my time spent in the Hudson Valley this past summer was attending the Iron Grad Competition, held at the Rhinecliff Hotel. Never heard of such an event? Probably because this was the first one to be held, but very likely to be repeated. Similar in style to Iron Chef, there were four rounds throughout the summer during which recent culinary school grads competed for the title of "Iron Grad."

I attended the final round, and the whole event was extremely enjoyable and done in very good taste. There were about one hundred very enthusiastic and supportive guests, and three local seasoned chefs who were the judges (including Laura Pensiero from the aforementioned Gigi's, to my delight). All three courses were accompanied by wine pairings, and all dishes were very inspired and delicious! Although the judges did offer some constructive criticism, it was not nearly as critical and harsh as that on Iron Chef (or Top Chef, which I'm personally more familiar with).

The event was clearly meant to support rising local chefs first and foremost, who were challenged to incorporate local farm ingredients into their courses. It definitely succeeded in bringing together the Hudson Valley foodie community to recognize the young chefs. Below is the first course that was served, a delicious beggar's purse of crispy phyllo dough enveloping heart-meltingly creamy Old Chathom camembert, worthy of all the awards it has won over the years. A subtly sweet corn puree and ripe tomato jam accompanied the pastry, embodying the summer flavors that dreams are made of. I think they are getting ready to hold another Iron Grad Competition this Fall, and if you find yourself in the area, it is most definitely worth looking into. For a four-course meal with wine pairings, it was $35 per person, extremely reasonable.

I could honestly continue on illuminating all the great meals I had this summer in the Hudson Valley, but I will stop, just ending on the note of Mario's Brick Oven Breads, tucked away in a shopping center in Hopewell Junction (845 226-3782). Besides their loyal following, Mario's is honestly the best kept secret of Hudson Valley, and possibly all of New York. Their fresh breads and homemade pastas (and zeppoles, available on the weekends!!) are truly what I most look forward to. It is the first and last stop my family makes during our vacations. And I should stop talking about it, because it is making me really miss eating that first piece of a fresh ciabatta, with its delectable crust, and an inside so moist and chewy that no condiment is needed. Hudson Valley, I have only respect for you.


Thanks for reading!
Julie